A Travellerspoint blog

One of our favourite days on the Rhine

Hattenheim to St Goar via Rudensheim and Bacharach

sunny 25 °C
View Tandem tales on darrenhough1974's travel map.

Wake to a pink sky over the Rhine. It’s nice and clear. Good thing as it rained overnight, even though it wasn’t forecast to. Our sleep was somewhat interrupted. There was a car ferry with a techno party cruising up and down the river. It was Saturday night and it passed 4 times. Each time it passed it sounded like the rave was inside our tent. I could feel the bass thumping on my chest. I have no idea how the people on the ferry can hear anything today. The last time it passed was maybe at midnight, so it didn't disrupt our sleep too much.

Lay out the tarp to make breakfast - coffee is the priority, then porridge with banana. We seem to be the first ones up in the campground but there are already many cyclists riding by.

Kim calls her dad to see how he is doing. He is out of hospital and feeling good, but tired. He didn’t sleep in the hospital. Kim is relieved.

As we leave as our German neighbours open their motorhome doors to start preparing breakfast. They wish us a good trip and take pictures of us as we leave.
Today's ride is probably the most spectacular we have had in terms of man made features rather than sheer natural beauty - it’s castle after castle after castle. It’s slightly downhill, and there are pretty villages on both sides. Cracking day.

First village of note is Rudensheim. A small village with more cracking narrow lanes with beautiful buildings. It's famous for it's Mosel wine, and especially it's Ice wine - super sweet because it is picked during a heavy frost. Being super cute means the town is overrun with tourists. We manage to stroll down the laneways with Polly and Pacman. A few Aussie’s are in town. They yell out “nice flag” as we pass when they spot it on our jersey. We give them the thumbs up.
20230917_113712.jpg20230917_113858.jpg20230917_114041.jpg20230917_114045.jpg20230917_114152.jpg20230917_114024.jpg20230917_114342.jpg20230917_114410.jpgFrom Rudenahiem we take the ferry across the the west of the Rhine. We get charged for one bike and one person. Guess they don’t get too many tandems :)
It’s time for lunch so we pull up in a park with the best picnic spot we've had for ages. It overlook's the Rhine and the east bank which is lined with vineyards and a castle at the top. Pretty impressive.
Refuelled we continue our ride and see castle after castle on both sides of the Rhine. It’s a "wow" kind of day. We need it. Some of the last few days have been industrial or along canals and forests which were nice but not jaw dropping.
Our second gorgeous town for the day is Bacharach. We cycle through its gates and along its cobbled street. The painted wooden houses are picture perfect. It’s too early to stop for a beer but this would have been the perfect place. On its hill is a castle converted into a youth hostel - what an amazing place for a 20 something year old backpacker to spend the night - cool!
There are two towers at Oberwesel, at about the 40km mark. I think these were to help boats navigate the rocky bend in the river called Loreley from which a well known folk song is named after...
We arrive in Sankt Goar our final beautiful town of the day. We try to find a beer garden on the Rhine but no luck. There is a campground along the riverbank but there is a train line behind it. Kim has read that freight trains run throughout the night. We veto this spot and cycle a few km inland to another campground. We are up our tent shower and enjoy a cold beer in the beer garden. They have goulash soup on the menu so we both order that as an early dinner. Our tent area has views of castle ruins and with a little stream running by. It’s peaceful.
Two other campers are our neighbours for the night are German and Dutch. Neither speak English but are still super friendly.

The sunsets at 8pm and the dew has arrived so it’s a an early night.


Days cycled - 111
Rest days - 55
Distance cycled - 48.7km (5520.3km)
Ascent - 320m (Total 48770m)
Descent - 300m (Total 48650m)
Money Spent - $76 AUD (Total $19045 AUD)

Posted by darrenhough1974 00:00 Archived in Germany

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I know you guys have to finish in Amsterdam at some point, but it's been so awesome following these stunning blogs along the way that I really wish you could keep going for another 12 months at least.
What a cracking adventure.

by Andy Miln

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